Packing up my tent, flocks of two different types of birds carefully watched my preparations for departure. Today should be my last day in the desert, and as I crossed rounded hills, the first signs of grass could be seen. On my approach to Kfar Hamokdim a lady(?) in a black cloak with a brightly coloured backpack was leading goats over the hillside, trailed by two dogs who looked at me suspiciously. Kfar Hamokdim seemed a Bedouin settlement aimed at tourists. Saddled camels stood ready in an enclosure and a few coaches were parked outside. A sign assured visitors that the animals received veterinary care. Nearby there were scattered settlements where the Bedouin lived with stacked bails of hay for their animals.
After walking up a narrow valley, climbing over rocks, I saw many more flocks of sheep and goats, more than I thought the sparse, desert vegetation could support. At various spots the Bedouin had set up, or were in the process of constructing, their square tents.
The path, instead of heading straight for Arad, took me on a lengthy tour around the north of the town. Its purpose seemed to be to take me to the Rahamim pit, where a wall from another era was used to collect water. Finally heading for town, I lost the waymarks for a while. Following the route I had planned on my GPS I regained them by an old well, the water level here not so deep. As I looked in I disturbed some roosting pigeons. Passing my final flock of plump, woolly sheep a shepherdess asked me the time and asked "Kwayis?" (good? in Arabic). I said "Arad", thinking she wanted to know where I was going only later working out my mistake.
As I walked into Arad I was struck by the number of Hasidic Jews in their black hats and long black overcoats, almost the first I had seen on my walk. Also a lot of cats sitting on benches, looking around purposefully. Arad is my biggest town since Eilat, with tower blocks and coffee shops.
Tonight I am in Alisa's place. A room with all I could need, decorated with artwork made of wool and fabrics with trees as a theme. She recommended the Muza restaurant for dinner. An excellent choice with good "Negev" beer, plentiful food, friendly staff and a small but well thought out selection of Scottish whiskies (i.e. malt whiskies you might actually see in Scotland). I had a delayed celebration of my birthday with a glass of Glenfiddich.
29.8 kilometres walked today to reach my accommodation at Arad, with a 1100 metre total ascent.
Is it possible to walk from Arad to EIn Bokek in one day?
ReplyDeleteI walked it in two days but had plenty of spare time so I suppose you could do it in one really long day especially if you took the road near Arad where the INT takes a bit of a loop. Check it out in the Red guide and put a query on the tapatalk INT forum before you make a decision and be prepared to hitch hike the last bit if it's too much.
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