Sunday, March 1, 2020

Bar Giora to Jerusalem on Israel National Trail: Day 28

A wet start to my walk up a green corridor to the suburbs of Jerusalem, then a bus journey to my home for the next three nights.
Heavy rain pounding on my tent woke me. I turned over for another twenty minutes until the only sound was traffic on some nearby road and quickly decamped. Rain restarted as I continued my trek east towards Jerusalem. The amount of forest so close to such a major city suprised me. I was less happy with the heavy mud and large pools of water brought by the overnight rain. 

The green corridor leading to the outskirts of Jerusalem

After an hour or two of walking I reached the picnic area of Ein Kobi where there was a specific camping area I had hoped to reach last night, the fall of darkness prevented me. There was a cave or cistern you could go down steps to, however the rain meant that the lower steps were under water. It looked part of an old system for managing water for irrigation.
Most of the day was easy walking on 4x4 tracks, but after Ein Kobi it was down a stream bed. The rain had made the rocks treacherous, smooth and slippery. I carefully climbed down, my wet trousers fighting me as they gripped my legs restricting movement. As I crossed beneath a railway, the river beyond was in full flow, with water following off the side of the road cutting. A lengthy walk along tracks brought to me to the Jerusalem park, where the old terraces had been renovated with their olive trees and a system for the distribution of water. Not much later I climbed into the outer suburbs of Jerusalem. I found the bus stop from where I planned to catch the number 19 bus to Jaffa street. It arrived before I was ready. I jumped on and the driver headed off asking for my card while I reeled backwards then forwards as we shot off. Apparently you need a special bus card, I had none. Fortunately he sold me one, brought to me by another passenger as we drove through various parts of the metropolis. 
Jerusalem always had clear, blue skies in the pictures I had seen of its sights over the years, so seeing it first hand with dull, overcast skies threatening more rain rather contrasted with my preconceived image. I arrived at the Abraham Hostel where I plan to stay for the next three nights. After a phone call to my wife to let her know I had safely arrived, a much needed shower and laundry followed, with much peering at instructions and inserting coins into slots. My dirty clothes are now nice and clean and warm.
I took a walk in the nearby market area. There are lots of attractive stalls with dried fruit, nuts, halva etc.. I have stopped at Freddy Lemon where the bartender insists on an Arak before each beer, you down this anise based spirit in one. I watch the people go past in the market, tourists, Hasidic Jews with black hats or curly sidelocks, older ladies in padded jackets (it is cold, although the forecast for tomorrow is good), workmen with woollen hats, people with skull caps, girls with long curly hair, young men with the fancy hair styles. Then it's back "home" to the Abraham Hostel to use the free pizza voucher I was given and listen to some live music.

Live music at the Abraham hostel


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